MOLECULE
- ROS, RCS, RNS scavenger
Regimen Lab Skincare Encyclopedia
Dimethyl Methoxy Chromanol
V 1.0
TLDR
- DMC is a tocopherol-analog that has greater antioxidant power
- It is used at 0.01-0.05%
- It also has some anti-pigmentation and barrier repair property
Regimen's Take
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, also known as Lipochroman-6, is a "bio-inspired molecule" that is engineered to be similar to gamma-tocopoherol. This results in a powerful antioxidant that results in protection from Radical Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Carbonal Species. Studies have shown DMC to have higher antioxidative power than many well-known antioxidants, like Vitamin C, Vitamin E, CoQ 10, Green Tea Extract, etc. In skincare, studies have shown it to have benefits on: wrinkle depth, skin elasticity, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation, and lipid peroxidation. One drawback is that it can only be used in low concentrations because of its solubility and texture
What is Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol (DMC)?
Dimethylmethoxy chromanol, also known as Lipochroman-6, is a “bio-inspired molecule” that is engineered to be similar to gamma-tocopherol. It is a powerful antioxidant protecting our cells from oxygen, nitrogen, and radical carbonyl species. Studies found much higher antioxidative power in DMC than in many well-known antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, CoQ 10, green tea extract, etc.
What are the benefits of DMC?
- Antioxidant
- Barrier Function
- Photoprotection
- Reducing wrinkle depth
- Improving skin elasticity
- Brightening
What is DMC’s Effective Concentration?
The recommended usage of DMC in cosmetics is 0.01-0.05%. Only a low concentration is needed in the formulation because of how potent it is compared to other antioxidants. There are no reports of toxicity and safety concerns for its use in cosmetics. Since DMC exhibits powerful protective effects, it is often used as an anti-aging and anti-pollution agent in daily skincare such as sunscreens, facial and body moisturizers, serums and essences, eye creams, and even makeup.
Formulation Consideration
The antioxidative property of DMC can protect other ingredients in the formulation from degradation and lipid peroxidation. It is often found in products containing lipophilic ingredients. One particular problem with DMC is that it can only be used in small amounts as it is resin-like. At high concentrations, it imparts stickiness to formulations so it can only be used at very low amounts.
Biochemical Details
Antioxidant
This remarkable compound has a similar structure to vitamin E but has proven to be among the most potent radical scavengers. Its efficacy against oxidative stress in the skin significantly exceeds both resveratrol and vitamin E. It potently inhibits peroxynitrite-induced lipid peroxidation, effectively preventing skin cell damage induced by peroxynitrite and nitric oxide formation. Clinical studies show that the antioxidative capacity of the skin was able to increase by 21.3% in 14 days and 36.7% in 28 days after daily usage. In a separate study using an ex-vivo skin model, topical creams containing 0.01% and 0.05% DMC significantly quenched the highly reactive singlet molecular oxygen (1O2) and deactivated reactive oxygen species at a rate of (1.3 +/- 0.1) x 108 M-1 s-1.1 Moreover, the antioxidant action of a sunscreen containing 0.05% DMC reduced oxidative stress in the skin by preventing irreversible DNA damage (recall: excess ROS production could lead to DNA damage causing wrinkle formation and melanin synthesis) and stopping the degradation of collagen and elastin.2
Barrier-repair
DMC was also shown to help with barrier-repair relating to water loss. When a 0.05% DMC-supplemented sunscreen was applied twice daily, an increase in stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was observed on Day 84. There was also an increase in the number of high echogenic pixels (HEP) and a decrease in the number of low echogenic pixels (HEP) in the dermis on the same day. This means that DMC supplementation to the sunscreen was able to prevent the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers in the skin. While younger skin demonstrated higher HEP (i.e. less collagen and elastin degradation) compared to mature skin after DMC treatment, both skin types were able to see an increase in HEP and HEP to total echogenic pixels (TEP) ratio (HEP/TEP).2 The same sunscreen formulation was also shown to augment net skin elasticity after 84 days and viscoelasticity as early as 28 days of treatment.2 Additionally, reducing oxidative stress in fibroblasts also promotes repair of the barrier function and wound healing. The restorative and anti-aging effect is credited to antioxidant supplementation, preventing ROS-induced damage to the dermis from photoaging or UVA exposure and restoring skin hydration.
Photoprotection
DMC is known to have a lightening effect on pigmented skin and is used in anti-aging skincare for the treatment of dark spots and sun damage. Sunscreens are applied as a preventative measure for hyperpigmentation, but antioxidants in the formulation also have the ability to reverse UVA-mediated oxidative damage and reduce the intensity of dark spots, especially when used daily with re-application.2 DMC may interfere with the processes responsible for melanin synthesis, though, the mechanisms behind its biological actions are still under investigation.
Clinical trials
Concentration/Delivery |
Study Details |
Results/Conclusion |
Source |
0.01% and 0.05% LC-6 cream, topical |
Pig back skin, ex vivo |
The lifetime of singlet molecular oxygen (1O2) was significantly shorter in the porcine skin treated with LC-6 (at both concentrations). LC-6 is a potent 1O2 scavenger that is capable of deactivating ROS with a rate of (1.3 +/- 0.1) x 108 M-1 s-1. |
1 |
0.05% DMC in a sunscreen formulation, topical |
Human, n = 44, T = 3 months, in vivo, frequency = twice-daily self-application |
DMC supplementation to the sunscreen formulation significantly improved skin pigmentation and stratum corneum water content, while reducing collagen degradation and water loss. Better skin elasticity was seen in subjects treated with DMC-containing sunscreen. |
2 |
Does it penetrate the skin?
Skin penetration of DMC is still under analysis.
References
- Nonell S, Garcia-Diaz M, Viladot JL, Delgado R. (2013). Singlet molecular oxygen quenching by the antioxidant dimethylmethoxy chromanol in solution and in ex vivo porcine skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 35:272-280. doi: 10.1111/ics.12039
- Souza C, Campos PM, Schanzer S, Albrecht S, Lohan SB, Lademann J, Darvin ME, Meinke M. (2017). Radical scavenging activity of a sunscreen enriched by antioxidants providing proection in the whole solar spectral range. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. doi: 10.1016.j.ejps.2017.03.026